Vladimir Mikhailov, wooden walls, like any other, is required to protect from moisture and heat insulation. In this case, however, has its own specifics, there are some differences and peculiarities, which will be discussed. In ancient times, ways to protect the wooden huts on cold and wet was a little bit. That no water seeped into the logs, their ends are hewing ax, sealing the pores of wood in this way, but the gap between the rims and stopped with moss or oakum. Efficient heaters ancestors did not know, so I try to use thicker timber. However, too thick it was difficult to stack the logs in the crowns, there were restrictions on the thickness, and therefore the ability of walls to keep heat in the house had its limits. To home is not vystyval in severe frosts, in rooms made low ceilings, small windows, and was constructed in the center of a massive Russian stove. Cap huts sprinkled the ground, the mound was called the "mound" and she looked, of course, is not very presentable. Solve the problem of insulation and protection of wooden houses from atmospheric and soil moisture was later, when there appeared a special warmth and waterproofing. This allowed us to build wooden houses with high ceilings, large windows, nepromerzayuschimi walls, etc. Although, of course, the problem is not entirely disappeared, and one of these challenges - preservation of the shape of a wooden house and all the pros stay in environmentally safe housing of this type. Agree: nothing good in that log or square log house is protected from cold and moisture, but packed with a variety of "synthetic", and looks have not wooden. One of those "crafty" ways of warming is a wooden house with brick veneer. Experts recommend at the same time must verify whether the increased workload will withstand the foundation (brick - he's heavy!), As well as start Brickwork only after the end of the shrinkage process framework. Brick in this case should be separated from the tree clearance is not less than 40 millimeters, which opens from the top in a space under the roof. And to retain rigidity lining, masonry is combined with a wooden wall with special bonds - non-ferrous metal strips. There are other conditions, particularly vapor-permeable membrane processing brick hydrophobizator, but even if all the conditions of the game, they say, may not be worth the candle. If the house looks will look like a brick, then why bother to translate the woods? Is not it easier to build it out of aerated concrete, which in itself is an insulator, and then sheathe the inside lining? Likewise, little use for the insulation of wooden houses widespread multi-plaster facade systems. When the device of such a system on the bearing wall mounted heat-insulating material, it is covered with reinforcing mesh to be coated base and decorative layers of plaster. Even though these systems are very well-proven in the construction of houses made of brick and aerated concrete, in the case of wooden houses with stucco insulation and other components of the "Layer Cake" in the literal sense of killing a unique look of natural wood. So, here we used wood waste. Such a method of warming can be recommended except for the repair of old or dilapidated wooden buildings. It may happen that the wooden facade is not restored to its original form, it can only be updated by closing any finishing material. And here facade system as a whole, say, with the siding can be very handy. Against this negative examples from this region do not end there. It happens that the owners of wooden houses rely on the fact that wood as a material with low thermal conductivity, by itself, will protect the house from the cold. So some simply plug the gap with moss, paving under the plating of some dense material such as cardboard or tar paper and complacent. However, it should be said that this method provides only a windproof construction, and no insulation. More than that - a layer of roofing material can even contribute to dampening the premises, except that it will be cold. Buffer for cold considered examples of "contradiction", we turn to a positive experience. Let's start with the fact that the warming of the wooden house is not only in laying on the wall of a heater. There is, if anything, an architectural way to save heat in the house - a device glazed verandahs all around. Air, as is known, is a good heat insulator, and a porch in the cold winter time effectively reduces heat loss through walls. Role of a similar buffer could also play a variety of barns, which are arranged along the walls. But if the design of your home does not provide anything like this, we must pay attention to other ways of warming. One of the important operations in the construction of log houses is the seal mezhventsovogo space. For this purpose the most frequently used traditional materials such as flax and hemp tow (moss and wool felt, having a number of disadvantages, is currently not used in practice). Even higher quality seal is achieved by applying a special thermal insulating fabrics of jute bast fibers. This painting is a ready product for immediate placement in the frame. It comes in the form of tape thickness and width suitable for the construction of the house of a certain type of timber or logs. Application of sealing blade greatly accelerates the assembly of log home, ensuring reliability mezhventsovyh seams. The technology of thermal insulating cloth is very simple. The bands are behind the curve along the long side and placed between the rims, not reaching up to 5 mm in all beams. The number of layers and the thickness of thermal insulating fabrics are selected based on the quality of construction material. If the board of behaviors, rough and raw, you will need two layers of thick fabric with possible additional tabs in the voids. For laminated veneer lumber or logs fairly smooth single layer. Thermal protection of the wooden walls perform at their lining with inside or outside. At the same time without fail to solve the problem of condensation, which can accumulate in the wooden wall, thus contributing to its destruction. In cold weather the temperature inside the wall below the room, so when a pair of heat penetration into the wall and in contact with the cold condensation zones. This process goes continuously, causing the accumulation of moisture, humidity, fungal diseases of timber. Catching up with thermal protection of walls, it must be remembered that the thermal conductivity of permeable insulators (mineral wool, glass wool, etc.) that are listed in reference books, is measured in conditions far from reality. In reality, the heat transfer of air passing through the heater, it moisturizes, reducing the heat-shielding properties. That is why completely avoid wetting the walls can not, you can only minimize the amount of moisture and to ensure its removal in the street. For this purpose, special materials of domestic and foreign, which are parovyvodyaschuyu insulation for removal of moisture from the insulation and interior structures of walls. There was widespread in modern construction practices have sandwich structures - a combination of load-bearing wall and a layer of effective insulation, closed from the outside decorative wood paneling. The most common mistakes made in this case, include the installation of vapor tight layer (glassine, roofing, vinyl film etc.) to the outside heater. Whereas in winter the movement of water vapor through the building envelope is inside the premises. And if the heater is insulated from the outside, then for a season its moisture content can increase by 20%. This entails multiple decrease in the efficiency of warming and increased flow of funds for home heating. In addition, the outer vapor barrier prevents moisture removal beyond the envelope of design and promotes the formation of mold and mildew. In addition to the external walls of a wooden house, you need to insulate and interior floors, walls and partitions. This allows us to improve the indoor climate, provides good sound insulation, etc., requires special attention attic joists and the foundation because of its insulation depend not only energy costs but also the safety of load-bearing structures of the building. For example, mineral wool insulation on the perimeter of the building under the blind area reduces the effect of frost heaving on the foundation. Comfortable humidity and temperature environment in the house is achieved only under the condition that all contact with the ground elements of the building are insulated. In domestic practice as a heater wooden houses is most often used plates from mineral (basalt) or glass fiber, they are placed on walls or between joists. In the arsenal of Russian builders a wide range of insulating materials of foreign production. and a barrier to moisture Wooden House is also required to protect from moisture. In homes without a basement, built on a concrete or stone foundations, waterproofing works tend to restrict the device a protective layer between the foundation. To this end, between the concrete and wooden structures lining the walls make the waterproofing of roofing or roofing material. In homes with a basement of these measures are insufficient, especially when the groundwater level is high. Protect the house structure from moisture helps waterproofing the walls and bottoms of the underground part of the house. During the construction of wooden buildings used obmazochnuyu or paint, asphalt, okleechnuyu and tough waterproofing. Obmazochnaya waterproofing is a continuous waterproof layer of bitumen mastic thickness of 4-5 mm. Waterproofing Paint is a kind of obmazochnoy and applied as a layer of dye composition - 0,2-0,8 mm. It is designed to protect structures from capillary moisture without hydrostatic pressure. Obmazochnaya (PAINT) waterproofing for indoor and underground, and only from the backwater. Bituminous materials are produced as a solution of bitumen and sand, sometimes used with fillers and special additives. Paint formulations are made from etinolevyh lacquers mixed with asbestos, and dyes. Asphalt waterproofing - a solid mass of asphalt waterproof layer thickness of 10-15 mm, created on the horizontal and inclined surfaces of the basement of the house. It is applied in hot or cold emulsion pastes and mastic with an admixture of 3-4% cement. Hot mastic asphalt waterproofing properties acquired immediately after cooling, cold - after drying. Okleechnaya waterproofing is made from roll material to be applied on the insulated surface with a special sealant to one to four layers. As an insulating material used waterproofing, Izola, roofing material, plastikatnye materials, etc. The waterproofing carpet suit, usually by hydrostatic pressure. The number of layers of waterproofing okleechnoy depends on the category of dry insulated room and hydrostatic pressure. Layer of plaster, made of cement-sand mortar, called the rigid waterproofing. Waterproofing layer applied to walls, floors and ceilings of the basement of the house. Traditionally used for waterproofing waterproof non-shrinking cement or portland cement with sealing additives.
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