Vitaly Lviv tiled grout, with some exceptions, is a cement slurry, which is usually packed in powder form and mixed with a liquid to a thick paste. It is used to fill the joints between the tiles, protection, support and framing their edges. Since in accordance with the instructions of grout should be an effort to dent the joints, the grout helps to reduce water penetration into the seams. However, there is no grout, which would be completely waterproof and which would have been able to stop the penetration of water or moisture in the ground. To learn how to avoid this effect will be discussed in this article. There are two basic types of grout material: a mixture of cement and the mixture through the resin. GROUTING mixture of cement, in turn, are divided into several categories: cement grout mixture based on Portland cement and cement-sand mixture based on Portland cement and sand. Cement-based grout has invented and patented by Joseph Aspdin (Joseph Aspdin) back in 1824 in the city of Leeds (UK). Portland - cement, incidentally, got its name from the Board because the color very much like building stone, mined in the English island of Portland. Simple intertiled grout is exceptionally cement mixture with additives that give it specific performance - for example, easy spreadability (which increases the convenience of installation) or slowing down the process of setting. Such a cement mixture usually diluted with water or liquid latex. Easy grout used for joints of width less than 5.3 mm. In the manufacturer's instructions should always be written, for a joint width you can use this grout. Sand grout - a simple mortar, to which is added to the strength of the sand used for joints wider than 5 mm and can be of different grits (depending on the different sizes of particles of sand). Usually the larger the width of the seam, the greater the size of the particles used for jointing sand. Colours such grout fairly scarce - the materials dictate the color, so often it meets the gray or white. Some varieties of these two types of grout can be used for enamelled tiles, and tiles without enamel. But still, the sand grout should not be used on surfaces that are easily scratched (such as marble, delicate glazed tiles) Are species grout, specifically designed for a specific tile. If the grout is designed for stacking, no bundled packages of dry material, use liquid latex additive instead of water when mixing grout. Polymer modified grout more flexible than conventional grout, keep their color longer and more moisture resistant. If you want to make your own natural color of grout, you can do it very sparingly. If the seam has a width of less than 1.5 mm, use a mixture of portland cement and necessary additives. If the seam is wider than 1.5 mm, the required mix of one part Portland cement and one part sand. For a joint width from 3 mm to 12 mm, use sand to the size of grain, equal to 30. Grout width from 9 mm to 25 mm is most suitable universal sand. Since the process of grouting has many different features, it is very difficult to make a single table material consumption for various types of grout. Grouts based on epoxy resin grout contains epoxy resin, pigments and hardener, which makes the seams thicker, more water-resistant and resistant to stains and various chemicals. This type of grouting is the most expensive and therefore used mainly in industrial and commercial premises. Epoxy grout is also recommended for grouting of metal tiles. However, epoxy grout is viscous, it is difficult to work and it is incredibly difficult to brush away. If your tile is not thicker than 12 mm and width of the seams is less than 6 mm, such grout will not penetrate into such narrow seams. Kind of epoxy grout - modified epoxy grout with the addition of portland cement. According to its characteristics such grout is similar to conventional cement-based grout, but is more durable and resistant to stains. What can be said about the resistance to chemicals - she's such a grout completely the same as that of a normal grout based on Portland cement. If you buy epoxy grout primarily for resistance to chemicals, test its resistance to the chemicals, which will fall on it, to make sure that this is exactly the type of grout that you need. In addition, epoxy grout is recommended only for tiles with smooth edges - smalt her grip is not necessary. When working with epoxy grouting is better to use a respirator. Grout based on furan resin includes a furan resin (reaction product of furfuryl alcohol and furanola), which means that their part is absolutely no water. They are considered the most resistant to all chemical irritants, even strong acids. Her most difficult to use in your work - all the tiles need to be waxed before grouting and grout residues should be immediately washed with hot steam. Typically, such grout available only in black. Nevertheless, you should bear in mind that grout based on furan resins can react with certain chemicals, which are resistant epoxy grout and vice versa. Again, the important thing to understand, what chemicals would be to contact your grout and test it before installation. Apart from the usual grout based on furan resins, there are various modified versions - a mixture of portland cement, latex, etc. Grout based on furan resin used mainly in industrial areas and hardly suitable for installation in your home. The width and color you can mix their own color grout from raw materials (cement, sand and paint), but the resulting color can turn a dull and uninteresting, and may eventually lose its original color. Therefore, better to just buy a matching color grout from hundreds of ready-colored grout. Industrially manufactured grout evenly colored and far superior to the mixture, prepared by hand. The choice of grout to a large extent depends on your taste, but keep in mind that the color and shade of grout used with the tile, can greatly affect how the whole looks like the whole styling. Usually, a combination of a dark color grout with white tiles, or light grout with dark tiles, emphasizes the geometric pattern styling, while the grout is close in color to the tile conceals it. If you want to choose a grout is not white, but not sure what it is, choose a grout neutral color - the color of cement. A neutral (natural) make better use of grout and tile irregular shape, such, for example, as a self-made jets. If you use a grout that contrasts sharply with the color of the tiles look will unwittingly become fixated on the wrong form of grout joints. Whatever the tile, you'll be laid, if you choose too contrasting color grout, check it first on a single tile, not whether it will paint over the tiles. If stains remain, you should choose a different grout, or use liquid porozapolnitel, which is used to cover the tiles immediately before grouting. For large quantities of tiles used in the commercial veneer, tile is used, processed at the plant wax, which is then removed from the surface of the tiles after the grout hardens. To do a background check, prepare a small amount of rubbing a little more liquid consistency than required, and put on the front surface of the tile. If it is difficult to clean the tile, apply the sealant on the tiles are laid before grouting. Highly porous tile, such as handmade tiles, must be isolated before grouting. In any case, before laying the tile, it's worth checking the color of grout on a separate instance. Be sure to wait until the grout has dried up - it changes the color of the width of grout joints is partly based on personal preference, some, for example, like the narrow seams. Too broad seams as though visually suppress the tile. Square tiles measuring 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 and even 60 cm will look neat with sutures 3 mm. Irregular shape of the tiles are less noticeable with larger joints, but try to make them a width not exceeding 12 mm. The fact that the greater width of the seam, the greater the likelihood that he cracked. Seam width exceeding 12 mm will be stronger if the grout to add the sand with a large particle size, but it does not always help to protect a wide seam from cracking. (Another reason why the grout may crack and crumble - too much liquid when mixing grout). Equally, do not do concrete finishing seams are very narrow, because it will be difficult to fill their grouting as it should, and as a result through such joints will leak water into the liner. Many masters feel more confident that the quality of their cladding is in place, if the joints are wide enough to allow them to fill a latex or acrylic grout, resulting in seams will not only waterproof, but also can serve as shock absorbers during compression and expansion of the tiles. This ability of joints becomes negligible when the joint width is less than 1 mm. How to seal the seam should be borne in mind that the cost of cement-based grout, in principle, not suitable for wet areas. Sutures treated with such compounds, with time always turn yellow. In addition, they absorb into your top layer of moisture that triggers the formation of salts can be formed fungi and bacteria. Therefore, for the grout in the bathrooms need to apply special epoxy based grout. Please note that after planing polished porcelain tiles or wall tiles with a porous type of glaze on the surface may remain spots that will not wash. Tools and materials needed for the application of grout dust mask (for use with grout containing cement), rubber gloves, safety goggles, rubber scraper nozzle or bucket of grout sponge cushion the pointing, a wooden stick with a sharpened end of a toothbrush or clean cloth plywood sealant paint roller or a small brush to paint is especially dangerous when using dark grout and pigments penetrate the micropores of the upper layer. Therefore, in the grout should be familiar with the instructions and the requirements of the manufacturer. In any case, before grouting joints and tile it is recommended to wet with water, try to clobber the seam, rather than spread grout across the tiles, after the grout joints should immediately wash the tiles and after drying to produce a final cleaning with special acid-containing detergent recommended by the manufacturer (eg , «Detergres»). Typically, grout is recommended no earlier than a day after laying of tiles on the adhesive. Grout is prepared according to package directions. Fill the joints with a rubber float (floats). The very process of grouting involves several steps: 1. Mixing grout 2. Storage is the solution for better wetting 3. Repeated mixing grout 4. Distribution solution 5. Cleaning excess grout from beginning Put hill grout on the surface of tiles (you can just pour the solution out of the bucket, if you're on the floor, or scoop the solution of rectangular trowel for applying the wall). In order to distribute the grout, grout float is more suitable (in the appropriate version for the floor or walls) than a steel trowel. Hold it at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile and apply grout to the surface of the tiles on the diagonal. Walk float across the surface two or three times, but not just cover the seams with a solution, but try to rub, push it firmly into the seam that was densely populated trowels mortar. The stronger the resistance, the tighter the joint is filled and the stronger it will be. The main idea is to fill grouting brim all the corners and spaces around the tiles that remain after applying the adhesive. In the process of rubbing the liquid will leave the grout solution, and the seams will be filled with particles of sand and cement - can say, you get a solid instead of liquid slurry. Do not make the grout across the surface at once, best to spread the grout on a small spot size of about one or two square. meters, until you figure out how to quickly grasp the grout. So, if you have to work with the grout, which quickly grasped, you will need to stop and deal with cleaning. Sometimes you can just wipe about 9 square meters. meters before the start of its clean, in other cases can be covered only a small area of ??grouting. Work on a small spot will help you determine the speed at which you should work. If you are working with the surface, which is particularly difficult to clean after grouting, for example, with old brick veneer, use a bag to fill the joints for grouting. This bag looks and acts just like piping bag for cake decoration. At the end of the bag is fixed metal tip is approximately the same width as the grout joint. Bag filled with grout, and then she squeezed with force through the tip into the seam. When working with trowels sack put the tip of the bag on top of the seam, and promotes its forward along the edge seam on the extent of its completion. For greater efficiency, fill the seam along its entire length, rather than around the individual tiles. Typically, first fill all the horizontal joints (along the x-axis), and then the vertical (along the y-axis). It should squeeze out a little more grout than seems necessary. After she gently clutch, tamp the grout into the joint by pointing or a piece of smooth metal tube with a diameter greater than the width of the filled joints. Then give the opportunity compressed in the joint grout grab half an hour, then remove excess with a stiff brush. Removing grout first removal of excess grout - dry. When all seams are filled, to remove excess grout you'll need a grater, which must be kept under almost perpendicular to the tile surface. It is necessary to move the grater diagonally across the seam, or edge of the tool can enter the joint and remove from the part of the grout. (If this happens, just add a bit of grout into the joint and straighten the edge of the bead surface floats). Once the surplus will be removed, let the grout grab the opportunity before cleaning. As long as you do grouting and cleaning, you must not forget from time to time to mix grout mortar in a bucket to keep it soft before applying it to new areas. After dry cleaning edge trowel float (which removes the bulk of the excess grout from the tile surface), each facing in one degree or another requires wet cleaning. The time required for a full grasp of jointing to wet cleaning, very different from laying to laying. It can be equal to 5 minutes, but it may take 20 minutes or more. The rate of evaporation of grout affects weather conditions on the adhesive, glue, and tile. Keep in mind that the remnants of grout on the tile surface can grab quickly, although the grout in the joints may require more time. To assess the readiness of the surface of the tiles and grout joints to clean the sponge can be used: wet sponge as much as possible, and then test a small portion of the surface lining. Grout in the joints must be supple and dense, but not hard. If the grout is gripped too hard, the tiles will have to clean with great difficulty, so that this can damage the grout. On the other hand, if the sponge extends grout from the joints, which means that the grout is not enough to grasp. Wait a few minutes and check again. Cleanup can begin when grout in the joints remains in place. If it turns out that it has been too long before cleaning, and grout prisohla to the tile surface, you can remove it with a special abrasive float. 2. 3. 4.
Vitaly Lviv pavement mortar, with some exceptions, is a cement slurry, which is usually packed in powder form and mixed with a liquid to a thick paste. It is used to fill the joints between the tiles, protection, support and framing their edges. Since in accordance with the instructions of grout should be an effort to dent the joints, the grout helps to reduce water penetration into the seams. However, there is no grout, which would be completely waterproof and which would have been able to stop the penetration of water or moisture in the ground. To learn how to avoid this effect will be discussed in this article. There are two basic types of grout material: a mixture of cement and the mixture through the resin. GROUTING mixture of cement, in turn, are divided into several categories: cement grout mixture based on Portland cement and cement-sand mixture based on Portland cement and sand. Cement-based grout has invented and patented by Joseph Aspdin (Joseph Aspdin) back in 1824 in the city of Leeds (UK). Portland - cement, incidentally, got its name from the Board because the color very much like building stone, mined in the English island of Portland. Simple intertiled grout is exceptionally cement mixture with additives that give it specific performance - for example, easy spreadability (which increases the convenience of installation) or slowing down the process of setting. Such a cement mixture usually diluted with water or liquid latex. Easy grout used for joints of width less than 5.3 mm. In the manufacturer's instructions should always be written, for a joint width you can use this grout. Sand grout - a simple mortar, to which is added to the strength of the sand used for joints wider than 5 mm and can be of different grits (depending on the different sizes of particles of sand). Usually the larger the width of the seam, the greater the size of the particles used for jointing sand. Colours such grout fairly scarce - the materials dictate the color, so often it meets the gray or white. Some varieties of these two types of grout can be used for enamelled tiles, and tiles without enamel. But still, the sand grout should not be used on surfaces that are easily scratched (such as marble, delicate glazed tiles) Are species grout, specifically designed for a specific tile. If the grout is designed for stacking, no bundled packages of dry material, use liquid latex additive instead of water when mixing grout. Polymer modified grout more flexible than conventional grout, keep their color longer and more moisture resistant. If you want to make your own natural color of grout, you can do it very sparingly. If the seam has a width of less than 1.5 mm, use a mixture of portland cement and necessary additives. If the seam is wider than 1.5 mm, the required mix of one part Portland cement and one part sand. For a joint width from 3 mm to 12 mm, use sand to the size of grain, equal to 30. Grout width from 9 mm to 25 mm is most suitable universal sand. Since the process of grouting has many different features, it is very difficult to make a single table material consumption for various types of grout. Grouts based on epoxy resin grout contains epoxy resin, pigments and hardener, which makes the seams thicker, more water-resistant and resistant to stains and various chemicals. This type of grouting is the most expensive and therefore used mainly in industrial and commercial premises. Epoxy grout is also recommended for grouting of metal tiles. However, epoxy grout is viscous, it is difficult to work and it is incredibly difficult to brush away. If your tile is not thicker than 12 mm and width of the seams is less than 6 mm, such grout will not penetrate into such narrow seams. Kind of epoxy grout - modified epoxy grout with the addition of portland cement. According to its characteristics such grout is similar to conventional cement-based grout, but is more durable and resistant to stains. What can be said about the resistance to chemicals - she's such a grout completely the same as that of a normal grout based on Portland cement. If you buy epoxy grout primarily for resistance to chemicals, test its resistance to the chemicals, which will fall on it, to make sure that this is exactly the type of grout that you need. In addition, epoxy grout is recommended only for tiles with smooth edges - smalt her grip is not necessary. When working with epoxy grouting is better to use a respirator. Grout based on furan resin includes a furan resin (reaction product of furfuryl alcohol and furanola), which means that their part is absolutely no water. They are considered the most resistant to all chemical irritants, even strong acids. Her most difficult to use in your work - all the tiles need to be waxed before grouting and grout residues should be immediately washed with hot steam. Typically, such grout available only in black. Nevertheless, you should bear in mind that grout based on furan resins can react with certain chemicals, which are resistant epoxy grout and vice versa. Again, the important thing to understand, what chemicals would be to contact your grout and test it before installation. Apart from the usual grout based on furan resins, there are various modified versions - a mixture of portland cement, latex, etc. Grout based on furan resin used mainly in industrial areas and hardly suitable for installation in your home. The width and color you can mix their own color grout from raw materials (cement, sand and paint), but the resulting color can turn a dull and uninteresting, and may eventually lose its original color. Therefore, better to just buy a matching color grout from hundreds of ready-colored grout. Industrially manufactured grout evenly colored and far superior to the mixture, prepared by hand. The choice of grout to a large extent depends on your taste, but keep in mind that the color and shade of grout used with the tile, can greatly affect how the whole looks like the whole styling. Usually, a combination of a dark color grout with white tiles, or light grout with dark tiles, emphasizes the geometric pattern styling, while the grout is close in color to the tile conceals it. If you want to choose a grout is not white, but not sure what it is, choose a grout neutral color - the color of cement. A neutral (natural) make better use of grout and tile irregular shape, such, for example, as a self-made jets. If you use a grout that contrasts sharply with the color of the tiles look will unwittingly become fixated on the wrong form of grout joints. Whatever the tile, you'll be laid, if you choose too contrasting color grout, check it first on a single tile, not whether it will paint over the tiles. If stains remain, you should choose a different grout, or use liquid porozapolnitel, which is used to cover the tiles immediately before grouting. For large quantities of tiles used in the commercial veneer, tile is used, processed at the plant wax, which is then removed from the surface of the tiles after the grout hardens. To do a background check, prepare a small amount of rubbing a little more liquid consistency than required, and put on the front surface of the tile. If it is difficult to clean the tile, apply the sealant on the tiles are laid before grouting. Highly porous tile, such as handmade tiles, must be isolated before grouting. In any case, before laying the tile, it's worth checking the color of grout on a separate instance. Be sure to wait until the grout has dried up - it changes the color of the width of grout joints is partly based on personal preference, some, for example, like the narrow seams. Too broad seams as though visually suppress the tile. Square tiles measuring 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 and even 60 cm will look neat with sutures 3 mm. Irregular shape of the tiles are less noticeable with larger joints, but try to make them a width not exceeding 12 mm. The fact that the greater width of the seam, the greater the likelihood that he cracked. Seam width exceeding 12 mm will be stronger if the grout to add the sand with a large particle size, but it does not always help to protect a wide seam from cracking. (Another reason why the grout may crack and crumble - too much liquid when mixing grout). Equally, do not do concrete finishing seams are very narrow, because it will be difficult to fill their grouting as it should, and as a result through such joints will leak water into the liner. Many masters feel more confident that the quality of their cladding is in place, if the joints are wide enough to allow them to fill a latex or acrylic grout, resulting in seams will not only waterproof, but also can serve as shock absorbers during compression and expansion of the tiles. This ability of joints becomes negligible when the joint width is less than 1 mm. How to seal the seam should be borne in mind that the cost of cement-based grout, in principle, not suitable for wet areas. Sutures treated with such compounds, with time always turn yellow. In addition, they absorb into your top layer of moisture that triggers the formation of salts can be formed fungi and bacteria. Therefore, for the grout in the bathrooms need to apply special epoxy based grout. Please note that after planing polished porcelain tiles or wall tiles with a porous type of glaze on the surface may remain spots that will not wash. Tools and materials needed for the application of grout dust mask (for use with grout containing cement), rubber gloves, safety goggles, rubber scraper nozzle or bucket of grout sponge cushion the pointing, a wooden stick with a sharpened end of a toothbrush or clean cloth plywood sealant paint roller or a small brush to paint is especially dangerous when using dark grout and pigments penetrate the micropores of the upper layer. Therefore, in the grout should be familiar with the instructions and the requirements of the manufacturer. In any case, before grouting joints and tile it is recommended to wet with water, try to clobber the seam, rather than spread grout across the tiles, after the grout joints should immediately wash the tiles and after drying to produce a final cleaning with special acid-containing detergent recommended by the manufacturer (eg , «Detergres»). Typically, grout is recommended no earlier than a day after laying of tiles on the adhesive. Grout is prepared according to package directions. Fill the joints with a rubber float (floats). The very process of grouting involves several steps: 1. Mixing grout 2. Storage is the solution for better wetting 3. Repeated mixing grout 4. Distribution solution 5. Cleaning excess grout from beginning Put hill grout on the surface of tiles (you can just pour the solution out of the bucket, if you're on the floor, or scoop the solution of rectangular trowel for applying the wall). In order to distribute the grout, grout float is more suitable (in the appropriate version for the floor or walls) than a steel trowel. Hold it at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile and apply grout to the surface of the tiles on the diagonal. Walk float across the surface two or three times, but not just cover the seams with a solution, but try to rub, push it firmly into the seam that was densely populated trowels mortar. The stronger the resistance, the tighter the joint is filled and the stronger it will be. The main idea is to fill grouting brim all the corners and spaces around the tiles that remain after applying the adhesive. In the process of rubbing the liquid will leave the grout solution, and the seams will be filled with particles of sand and cement - can say, you get a solid instead of liquid slurry. Do not make the grout across the surface at once, best to spread the grout on a small spot size of about one or two square. meters, until you figure out how to quickly grasp the grout. So, if you have to work with the grout, which quickly grasped, you will need to stop and deal with cleaning. Sometimes you can just wipe about 9 square meters. meters before the start of its clean, in other cases can be covered only a small area of ??grouting. Work on a small spot will help you determine the speed at which you should work. If you are working with the surface, which is particularly difficult to clean after grouting, for example, with old brick veneer, use a bag to fill the joints for grouting. This bag looks and acts just like piping bag for cake decoration. At the end of the bag is fixed metal tip is approximately the same width as the grout joint. Bag filled with grout, and then she squeezed with force through the tip into the seam. When working with trowels sack put the tip of the bag on top of the seam, and promotes its forward along the edge seam on the extent of its completion. For greater efficiency, fill the seam along its entire length, rather than around the individual tiles. Typically, first fill all the horizontal joints (along the x-axis), and then the vertical (along the y-axis). It should squeeze out a little more grout than seems necessary. After she gently clutch, tamp the grout into the joint by pointing or a piece of smooth metal tube with a diameter greater than the width of the filled joints. Then give the opportunity compressed in the joint grout grab half an hour, then remove excess with a stiff brush. Removing grout first removal of excess grout - dry. When all seams are filled, to remove excess grout you'll need a grater, which must be kept under almost perpendicular to the tile surface. It is necessary to move the grater diagonally across the seam, or edge of the tool can enter the joint and remove from the part of the grout. (If this happens, just add a bit of grout into the joint and straighten the edge of the bead surface floats). Once the surplus will be removed, let the grout grab the opportunity before cleaning. As long as you do grouting and cleaning, you must not forget from time to time to mix grout mortar in a bucket to keep it soft before applying it to new areas. After dry cleaning edge trowel float (which removes the bulk of the excess grout from the tile surface), each facing in one degree or another requires wet cleaning. The time required for a full grasp of jointing to wet cleaning, very different from laying to laying. It can be equal to 5 minutes, but it may take 20 minutes or more. The rate of evaporation of grout affects weather conditions on the adhesive, glue, and tile. Keep in mind that the remnants of grout on the tile surface can grab quickly, although the grout in the joints may require more time. To assess the readiness of the surface of the tiles and grout joints to clean the sponge can be used: wet sponge as much as possible, and then test a small portion of the surface lining. Grout in the joints must be supple and dense, but not hard. If the grout is gripped too hard, the tiles will have to clean with great difficulty, so that this can damage the grout. On the other hand, if the sponge extends grout from the joints, which means that the grout is not enough to grasp. Wait a few minutes and check again. Cleanup can begin when grout in the joints remains in place. If it turns out that it has been too long before cleaning, and grout prisohla to the tile surface, you can remove it with a special abrasive float. (Unlike other cleaning graters, this grater does not leave scratches on the surface of the tiles - not to doubt, check first at the trimming tiles). After cleaning dried grout residue, walk across the surface of a well-wrung sponge. There are many methods for cleaning grout, some of them quite unusual. For example, some tilers poured over the dry grout joints (to wet the grout in the joints dry faster). Others use the sawdust to make them pulled out excess moisture, and you can easily remove the excess grout. Many of these methods is impaired, and thus destroy the concrete finishing seams, so we do not recommend their use. It is better to use a combination of proven techniques, which is suitable for both commercial liners, and a residential area. The basic principle of this method - use a minimum of water during cleaning, so as not to weaken the grout. Beginning wet cleaning you will need only a bucket of clean water and a sponge (better to take a sponge with rounded edges, so do not form the groove in the grout joints). Start cleaning grout from tile surface with soft circular wiping motion to remove the sand particles and cement. Be careful that the grout joints are not formed grooves. Rinse the sponge as soon as the sponge pores filled with particles of cement and sand, and after her well squeeze. If prior to treatment was not too long, you can remove the excess grout from the tile surface for two or three passes. For once, empty only a small portion (size 1-2 sq. M), often soaking the sponge to wash off the grout particles which penetrated into the pores of the tiles. When you rinse the sponge, always try to wash as much as possible and squeeze as much as possible, to be sure that all grout particles, which were in the pores of the tiles, washed away. Do not forget to shake off the excess water with your hands. If the veneer of not more than 9 sq m, there is no need to change the wash water in the bucket. Can be judged by the purity of water, as well laundered tile (of course, in some commercial projects need to constantly change water). Straighten and smooth the joints with jointing and wooden stick with a sharpened end or the end of the toothbrush. Then trim the edge joints with a sponge. Move the sponge along the seam, carefully removing the protrusions and filling the available cavity a small amount of grout on the tip of a finger (wear for this tight-fitting rubber gloves). The actual size of the weld depends on the type of tile, industrial or artisanal processing of the upper edge of the tile. If the edges of the tiles sharp and straight, the grout in the seams should be flat and flush with the top edge of the tile. If the upper edge of the tile is rounded, tiler must decide how high to make a seam. Whatever the height or has been selected, ideally the seam should be flat on top, not convex, although most of the joints is then slightly concave, which is quite acceptable. It is very important to give all the seams the same shape and depth. Once the seams in the liner are aligned, the surface of the tiles should be thoroughly cleaned again. First, rinse the sponge and wring it out well. Then make a straight, vertical passage about a meter long on one side sponge, slowly moving it toward you - slower than it seems necessary - and without stopping. (If you move the sponge quickly or intermittently on the surface of the tiles will strip from the grout). After the first pass, flip the sponge with clean side to make such a passage parallel to the first, and then stop and rinse the sponge. For a single pass, use just-washed side sponge. Continue this process until the entire area of ??the cladding will not be completely cleaned up, trying to act carefully, so that again the sponge is not pulling for a grout from the joints. If this happens, it could mean that the grout in the joints too much and need to trim the seams, or too much water in the sponge. After this cleaning all traces of grout should be removed from the tile surface, and we must give the possibility of the seams dry for 15 minutes. During this pause, the moisture remaining after cleaning on tiles, evaporates and particles of cement that were in the water are deposited on the surface of the tiles. If the tiles are covered with a shiny glaze, and the angles and straight lines, then flying from grout can be easily removed by wiping the surface once with gauze or a soft, clean cloth. If the tile has a matt surface or rounded corners, you may need another one extra pass with fresh water and a sponge. If the remnants of grout still be difficult to clean, you may not adequately clean the surface for the first time. If the surface of the tiles remained the glue that reason that the grout is gripped harder than usual, may be contained therein, latex or acrylic additives. However, whatever the reason, the longer duration stays on the tiles, the harder it is to remove. If you are unable to remove excess with a damp abrasive grater, you can try to use a special solution to remove plaque, or, in extreme cases, resort to using acidic cleaners. If you decide to use special cleaners or acid, keep in mind that the grout must fully grasp, before you use them. Nevertheless, do not wait to grout completely gripped until the last stage of cleaning - the removal of any traces of grout from the expansion joints. Application of the sealant when the grout is cured, the tiles and grout can be coated with sealant, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Thoroughly clean tile and grout and let them dry for several days. Then apply a sealer following the manufacturer's instructions. If you cover the sealant and tile and grout in the joints, use a paint roller. If you only cover sealant joints, use a small brush. All excess sealant that may accidentally get on the tile surface, immediately remove. For gentle care of tiles are sometimes requires you to cover the tile sealer every 2 years (sometimes more often if required by the manufacturer). In any case, if you notice. That the tile was often dirty and it has become harder to clean, then it is time to cover it with an additional layer of sealant, previously carefully cleaned. Why is grout cracking? It sometimes happens that after a week after the installation of your grout (it is quite possible, expensive and proprietary) starts to crack and crumble. Why is this happening and how to avoid it? Keep in mind that the grout is, above all, it is the cement mixture. A cement requires special conditions for a better setting. Environmental conditions affect the process of setting anyway, and they can weaken the grout, resulting in grout cracks occur. Therefore, after analyzing the manufacturer's instructions in order to cure grout passed properly. The most common reasons for cracking grout made on the basis of Portland cement: 1. Excessive amounts of water in the grout mixture. (Cracks are due to water loss by evaporation, which in turn leads to a decrease in grout mass). 2. If the tiles too absorb water from the grout, is stop the process of hydration of cement required for the normal setting grout, grout and reduced weight. 3. The base for laying tiles are not aligned or walks shake. This situation often occurs in wooden houses, where the boards sag or not tightly fastened. Even if everything is done right, is likely to change in temperature and humidity on the street will help to change the characteristics of the tree and as a consequence, the movement in the ground. 4. Does not match the type grout stowage. If the width of joints is greater than 4 mm, plain grout will not fit, you should use sand. In any case, the grout manufacturer's instructions written for a suitable grout joint width. Cracks in the grout will only grow with time. If it is cracked in the bathroom, you run the risk that water will penetrate through cracks and gradually destroy the foundation and laying materials that may damage the laying of tiles and exterior. Therefore it is better to repair cracked grout. If the grout is white, you can gently scratch grout building with a knife in the ground cracks and fill the seams with new white grout. This method is not suitable for color grout, as the colors may blend, layered one upon another, and no one can guarantee what color grout get you in the end. Instead of applying the new grout cracked surface, which can cause discoloration, it is better to use the building or punch and knife to remove damaged grout. Keep in mind that the grout is made on the basis of Portland cement, it becomes harder with time and reaches the highest degree of hardness (approximately 98%) after 28 days of laying tile. Be very careful when replacing the grout to prevent damage to the tiles! Change the grout only where necessary. How to avoid cracking of the grout before applying grout, make sure the glue is sufficiently grasped. Place for tiling should be clean and dry and free of dust and grease. Choose the type of grout that is most appropriate for your liner. When mixing grout, try to thoroughly mix the dry mixture with water. Not advisable to mix the mixture with a mechanical mixer at high speed as by air bubbles cause the weakening of the grout. Instead, work at low revs. After mixing, let the grout sit for an opportunity (ie, "rest") for 10-15 minutes. This will allow the mixture is completely moistened. Make sure that your grout is not old, otherwise the stitches will be soft. Most of the grout has a limited storage time prior to its use. If the tiles have an increased ability to absorb, dampen the joints before grouting. It is also recommended to cover the tile sealer, but you must choose the most suitable sealer. Use latex-modified grout is also helpful in this situation. If the grout is too much water during grouting fine cracks are formed, rub the dry grout into the joints so that it absorbed the excess water. If the manufacturer advises to periodically moisten grout grout for a better setting, follow his advice and do it all the time setting of grout. Do not make the grout in direct sunlight and do not use to accelerate the process of setting grouting aids, such as a hair dryer. This can lead to softening of the joints and their further destruction. The most common reasons for cracking grout made on the basis of Portland cement: 1. Excessive amounts of water in the grout mixture 2. If the tiles too absorb water from zatirki3. The base for laying tiles are not aligned or goes shaking 4. Does not match the type grout stowage best conditions for the grout, such as in a cool, dry garage or basement. Hot or too porous tiles can stop the process of hydration (setting) and the joints may get weaker. Avoid doing too wide trowels seams. If necessary, use a latex additive to increase the strength of the mixture. Do not add extra water or a mixture of grout after the grout is ready to start to set. Avoid exposure to strong chemicals on the dry grout, as a result, it can deteriorate and crumble. If, despite the fact that you changed the grout and did all the instructions, it continues to crack, often a problem in operation. Any reason not smooth (as in wooden houses), or too much load (flow of people, trucks, etc. - in shops, garages, warehouses), or grout is destroyed by acid (food production), or all of you prefer to make joints more than the manufacturer's instructions. In such a case would have to mix the grout is not water, but with special polymer additives, which completely eliminates the water (eg, Fugoplastic). At the same time try to make your mix was the most dry. If you do not help and it is - use silicone, preferably resistant to mold and mildew (otherwise darkened). He does not crack, but it must be carefully laid, smooth. Bad styling silicone can seriously damage the appearance of the premises. Never drain the remnants of grout into the sewer pipe, otherwise you risk to be faced with the need to change your pipes. It is best to leave the remnants of grout in the tank for a few days to water otsloilas from the main mass. Once the water will separate, drain and discard the remains of grout in the trash. When working with grouting never forget to wear a protective mask, as the inhalation of dust from the grout can cause serious health problems. In addition, always wear gloves and goggles when working with mortar, as the grout can irritate eyes and skin. If you use be sure to follow instructions and manufacturer's recommendations.
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