Alex Aleskovskii Most people are accustomed to having in the tool motor, and do not fully understand the purpose and set-up manual. Plane one of the oldest building tools still serves humanity, and sometimes successfully replace its electric competition. In our time, the planer is not going to give up the position of modern tools. Fundamentals of Hand planes reach the desired results when working through Zhelezko - a knife that is in the forefront of the gap (tap-hole). The sharper the angle, the easier the planing. We must strive to ensure that the incised edge of the chips separated without stress, but not cleaved and would form a teaser spoiling the surface. To do this planer is false glands or chipbreaker (Gorbatikov). His facet does not cut a tree, over and above the cutting edge in the 1,5-2,0 mm (the old masters were talking about 1 / 16 inch - 1.5875 mm) from the edge of the blade, and is breaking chips. Width of the tap-hole to exit the piece of iron affects the smoothness of the process: what it is, especially in the shorter distance covered in wood temporary stress on the blade and the more smooth gets the job done. Before 1917 believed that the three lines (7.6 mm) suitable for rough work, to fine - two (5,8 mm) or less. Top opening tap-hole expands to display the chip, and the front wall is vertical, and the back forms a wedge. With regard to the angle of the piece of iron (knife), then we must distinguish between: - edge angle formed by the parties, or for rubanochnogo piece of iron - a plane and chamfered - cutting angle formed by the upper bound of the piece of iron and the plane of shear (blank) - the angle - between underside of the blade and the machined surface. Once it becomes clear why rubanochnoe Zhelezko sharpen one side rather than both sides as a knife - just inverting it, sharpened at an angle of 25-30 degrees, you can get two different cutting angle: beveled down for a rough draft of the work and chamfer up for finishing planing. Planes come in several varieties of types. Jack-plane - is used for initial, rough, planed boards from the saw cutting, chopping or carving, he has Zhelezko semicircular shape, rather than direct. Blade width - 3.4 cm, total length of the instrument about 30 cm front had vertical (within small variations) handle, convenient for the application of great strength when planing. Planed them obliquely to the longitudinal axis of the board. Planer - strip width of about 65 mm, a length of 27-30 cm, straight cutting edge of 30-50 mm is used for surface treatment, which has traces of the saw or jack-plane or pure non-responsibility planing. Dual plane, having falshlezvie - chipbreaker currently the most prevalent. This is the main tool for clean shaved, and the opinion that the greatest purity gives the jointer, it is not true and refers to a double jointer. Polufuganok serves to align the long surfaces, has a length of about 60 cm and a width of about 8 cm double jointer - even longer, 75-80 cm, Zhelezko double (with chipbreaker). Medvedka used in olden times. It's a big plane with side handles, designed for planing alone: ??one pulling, pushing the other, he picked up a thicker chips, taking care not to a smooth surface, but about velocity redoubt of the tree. With the advent of commercially sawn planks and saws for raskroyki it is not commercially available, although each rustic carpenter if necessary, will make his own, would have been harvesting solid wood and a piece of steel from the springs for the piece of iron. Zenzubel and faltsgobel need for rebating. These tools block is narrow, and glands lateral sides go at it, so you can prostrogat quarter. Planing zenzubelem hard, the slightest deviation in the port of work, so long ago by German craftsmen invented faltsgobel, which has a lateral strip with screws or other constraint to the carpenter planing on the desired width. Now they are almost never used because of the ready-shaped boards for the frames and hand elektrofrezerov for the same work. Small planes are designed for small inkrustatsionnyh, mosaic, furniture restoration, fine crafts, taking pictures of short facets, correcting flaws in the work. They often lead to errors in the planing, on which are unsuitable for novice woodworkers. Planing good planers gives a very smooth surface - it is unlike polished with emery paper looks more shiny and less absorbs water more easily and effectively looked varnish after painting. Pattern tree is also better seen on the cut, rather than on polished surfaces. Carpenter-lovers of good, the hands-tuned instrument, the mastic flavor chips too pleasant than trembling body and a dull hiss polishers. Plane where quieter and does not cause domestic discontent with noise and fine dust - chips away easily, it was larger. Yes, and health wood dust is not very useful. In short, planes can not be replaced elektroshlifovalnoy machine, and can only supplement it. So in this age of the power hand planer early to write off a wreck - he still will serve as masters, and will for a long time. Professional or amateur? Neither one nor the other! Personal opinion: "professional" or "amateur" to hand tools generally not suitable. Any carpenter wants to have a tool that requires minimal time spent on maintenance, set up and long runs without amendments. But postolyarnichat lover in your free time we need a tool that will not spoil by clumsy handling in less experienced hands. The conclusion is simple - there are good things done, you can work and rest, which is better in your hands not to take. Typical mistakes in working planers After planing surface can give a little convex. The origin of the convexity is as follows: starting from the end of planing boards, the back pad to keep the planer weight than unconsciously and imperceptibly give it a slanted position in which he moves, until the whole block will not be on pare down the surface. Further movement of the planer guides the surface itself, but in the end of the turn when the front part of the planer overhangs, will tilt it forward. Get that in the beginning and end of the tool chips will be slightly thicker, and every move planer will increasingly lower edge, forming a bulge in the middle of the workpiece. If the board is wide, the same will happen at the edges of the planer when leaned to one side and the edge will climb thicker chips. To avoid this bias, it is necessary to monitor the force of arms - from the stroke plane, press down his left arm probably stronger, but only the right move the block straight ahead. At the end of the contrast, press down and move the block one right hand, left only to send the same plane forward. Strict region, need more press on the other side planer, which remains on the board, and reduce stress on the hanging in the air part. Do not try to pick up the chips thicker, the work will rough, with scratches and can be damaged at all. Before planing watch grain direction boards, they must reach the surface in the direction of a joiner, that is forward along the planer. If you planing to meet the fibers, the redoubt will rough, with scratches and flakes. If the billet from bad drying twisted propeller, then diagonally elevated angles form the so-called krylevatost, it eliminates, sostragivaya diagonal raised angles, first from one side and then the other. Then board ostrugivayut for flatness and alignment of equal thickness. When ostrozhek end of wood flakes often appear, spoiling the workpiece. To avoid them, you can shave from the edge to the middle of the board, alternately from different sides. Recommendations for buying planer When buying a planer must be why there is a tool. It is better to buy a plane normal size, and the small - only in addition to a large or thin work with small blooms. Cast-iron block is preferable, it is difficult to damage, it is easier to slide. Strip of sheet metal is not always flat, bend from accidental impact or in the hands of a very strong person. If you buy an instrument for a teenager or, for example, for the young modeller, take an ordinary plane, as small requires a strong hands and skills, which are unavailable. Weight of the tool - a matter of taste. For small amounts of works better than the one that is heavier. Fears that his hands are tired, not quite right, with an easy tool for fatigue (not the strength to hold ") is later than the loss of precision movements, which threatens to spoil the detail. Often desirable to take a break, just working a heavy planers. It should be very fly planes, or indeed any tool in the shop, but not in the catalog delivery. You can not charge a joiner who can not buy a person. As demonstrated by our study, the appearance - not a guarantee of quality tools, besides the marriage can not be ruled out entirely, well, if this is the mechanism of the curve extension piece of iron, it is possible to correct itself, but the curve block is not correct. Take a metal ruler and, turning the plane to the light from the window, attach to the bottom edge of the line - along the middle and on both sides, and diagonally in two directions. From the flatness of the sole to the greatest extent will depend on the quality of planing, in contrast to the grinding piece of iron it is not correct. If the sole is rough, but flat - take it easy - if not, ask for another copy. Any other defect actually (at least) to fix their own hands, soles of shoes than flatness, which is very harmful. (Unless, of course, the principal of your products will not be propellers for small aircraft.) Together with a plane buy a sharpening stone, a width of more piece of iron planer. Very easy to use double-sided stone with different grits.
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