Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Pruner

Most of secateurs - is working with a particular blade geometry (in Duplex cutting two of them). Angles of sharpening both blades should be very sharp and at the same time not too brittle. In good pruners bolt that connects the blades to each other, off-center so that the incision was moving. This tool does not cut, and neatly cuts the branch. Many models are fitted with comfortable buffer buff when closing the blades. Spring, distributing lever handle in hand, to prevent sticking of the blades and contributes to the soft opening and closing tool. The longer the handle, the more thick branches "in the teeth" to your loyal assistant. The Soviet pruners levers are plastic inserts, but when they were stripped, holes covered tape. This inventory was uncomfortable at work and potentially travmoopasen. Now covering the handles are made of various materials, soft and comfortable to lie in your hands. Another detail pruners - the castle. This simple little device does not allow the blades and the handles break under the action of the spring and is designed for secure and convenient storage in a closed state. Different but equally necessary there pruners mechanical and electrical, or rather, storage, serving to trim trees, vines, cutting, shaping berry and ornamental shrubbery, trimming the roots and other works. They are distinguished by purpose: to thin branches, and for thicker twigs, shoots, flowers, shrubs, by the construction of the cutting system - one-sided (on the principle of scissors) or bilateral (bypass and nakovalenkoy) cutting. If potential "customers" - garden flowers, thin branches of shrubs and young shoots, you optimally suited pruners - secateurs. They are equipped with two cutting blades and actually resemble its appearance is very rough scissors. Blades of them have a rounded shape, and cutting parts move toward each other. This tool provides a fairly smooth cut, but still compresses the material being cut. In addition, because of the low divorce cutting blades of this type of device can cut the branches no thicker than 1,5-2 cm for difficult areas the lawn, where not everyone will be mechanized mower, and make the grass fanciful relief also use a special type of pruner. He has long, curved at an angle to the blade handles, which allow not overextend your back, bending at mowing the lawn and work in tight cubbyhole. Benefits pruners first and perhaps most importantly - a low-impact device for the living shoots. Cut can be very clean, smooth, almost perfect. Cropped branches heal quickly, less prone to rotting, and the flowers after cutting no slack and not get sick. At the same time, conventional knives squeeze, pinch the shoots of the vessels, and saw them fray, opening the way garden infections. Pruner does not hurt and does not break the branches of trees, because that cut through traffic to escape across the edge of the working blade. In this branch itself remains stationary, because the other side it holds the focus or nakovalenka. The right choice - a handy tool first tucked under the arm pruner unknown firm, proposed a number two for the price of one, will not bring great joy or gardener or a plant. Do cheap (including homegrown) have their advantages: they are less demanding for quality sharpening and quite reliable. If the object of your care - a small rose garden and a pair of bushes (for example, currants), you do not need to acquire expensive high-tech equipment. When work on the site a lot - take care of the import copy which does not require a long re-sharpening, easy to operate and most comfortable in your hands. The basis of the preferences of any product is primarily its purpose. Depending on where it will use the pruner, and choose a model. Just remember to review your purchase and, most importantly, the blade. They should be made of high carbon steel: this is what ensures the sharpness and durability of sharpening. The highest quality knives - from pruners in Japan, but will not give them the sharpness and reliability, and German. And, of course, all the metal parts of the tool should be stainless steel - in fact working in the garden is always associated with high humidity. Secateurs some firms have blade with Teflon coating, which makes their work even more soft and reduces friction. They are quite durable, reliable, but require special care - fragile layer deposition can be easily damaged. Therefore, use the tool to the intended purpose only and does not try to replace them, say, a pair of scissors for metal. Comfort at work, of course, provide handles that can be made of tubular steel, wood, polypropylene, fiberglass reinforced plastic or aluminum alloys. It is not necessary to pay attention to specific materials. It all depends on how much time will have to work in the garden. For those who are willing to work all day, important handle made of soft, rough, non-slip material, lie comfortably in the palm. For example - with overlays of the microporous rubber. This ensures maximum comfort: the safe, comfortable, do not lead to the formation of blisters. Option of a smooth plastic with cutouts for your fingers - certainly not the best choice, but if you do not disappear on a daily basis on the site, this tool will do. He did and inexpensive - no small, incidentally, is a plus. Separate words deserve so-called no levers, hand in which to pass through. They protect your fingers from top to provide a secure grip and increase the productivity of your labor. Sometimes manufacturers have a handle at an angle to the blade - it allows to cut branches flush to the trunk, reduces pressure on the arm, which is very convenient for extended use. Weight pruners also plays an important role in the selection: tired from too heavy a lot faster. But in most cases, the aesthetics of the garden watched by women. Good producers facilitate its products through new materials used for coating the handles. However, almost weightless device should arouse suspicion - perhaps, its creators have chosen to maximize savings and offer you a fragile, unreliable tool. Unpretentious mechanical models made in Russia are from 100 to 200 rubles. Overseas, such as firms Fiskars, Gardena, Wincut, Raco, of course, more expensive: 500-700 rub. (Devices with power-driven) and 700-900 rub. (Lever). With more complex design Hedgecutters & Loppers sellers estimated at ? 900-1200. (And do not forget about the additional telescopic arm to them - more rubles, a kind, for 1200). For rechargeable models known companies (eg, Makita, Gardena, Bosch) have to pay 12.9 thousand rubles. A few words about sharpening Before sharpening tool, it is completely dismantled: remove the spring, unscrew the bolts securing the locking device, and a limiter, remove the axle nut. In models of bilateral cutting hone both halves of the blade, one-sided - only one. Part of the blade, beveled to form a cutting clumps, called a facet. Sold in stores samples have chamfer width of 1-2 mm, almost perpendicular to the cutting line. Use of such shears are not only difficult, but unprofitable for the plants. Well-cut, when the knife edge - of 6-7 mm, so just before the sharpening tool is treated with an electric sharpening stones: take off the metal layer to form a new bevel specified width. A very complex, subtle and hard work are best left to professionals. It requires great care and skill: bevel should be flat and right up to the edge, but do not affect it. After bevel hone, bring to a bar, moving the blade forward several obliquely, with some pressure in the direction of the blade. In this case, the inner surface of the cutting blades are not sharpened, they barely governed at the end of the work is done to remove the burrs formed. Qualitatively sharpened shears can cut paper, and it is on it and it should be checked. Better safe than sorry The more expensive, more convenient and more useful tool, the more maintenance it requires. However, for pruners care is minimal, because they are simple to use and reliable. However, abandoned after work on a bench in the garden or used inappropriately, they are quite capable of "revenge": blunt or break at the most inopportune moment. Remember, the maximum load for the conventional model - cut the branches as thick as 2.5 cm, and for Loppers - 4 cm Trying to cut the thicker stems may simply withdraw from the inventory system! Pruner - it is not clippers and scissors for metal, though outwardly they look like. If you try to bite their nails or cutting galvanized iron, blades quickly deformed and can no longer work qualitatively.

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